“{The city} encompasses many different realities which seem distinct from and even opposed to each other, yet are all intricately interwoven in a many-layered mesh of interdependent relationships. Further these realities are not fixed. They change over time. The change is, on occasion, rapid. In other periods it is practically imperceptible. In times of relatively rapid change, it becomes even more difficult to understand the city as a whole, since different sections of the population and different aspects of life in the city evolve at different paces.” (Pendse S.) The cities always contain multiple sections of the population, multiple aspects of life and it is the place where imperceptible rapid changes are happening continuously thus, city remains an enigma! The cities can be very well described as complex structure of interdependent lives and Mumbai being the one of the major cities and economical capital, this description fits perfectly to it. The images of the city are complex and mostly self-perception of city’s elite. But not the major population of the city i.e. Toilers and they remain unrepresented, unknown and mostly ignored. Mumbai is always known for its working population, be it yesterday’s Mill workers or today's Dabbawalas who maintains the rhythm of the city life. But never get considered as city developers. Along with this, there is one more section working over years, performing hereditary tasks to serve the city in certain way; are Dhobis i.e. washer men of Dhobi Ghat.
Being the major landmark of the city the Dhobi Ghat is not only the world’s largest open air laundry but also home to one of the biggest laundrymen communities in Mumbai, India. Spread across 4 acres near the Mahalaxmi racecourse, it employs over 7500 migrant workers (about 200 washer-men families) who live and work on site for about 18-20 hours, washing lacs of clothes collected from all over the city. Dhobi Ghat of Mumbai is actually a registered organization called ’’Dhobi Kalyan & Audyogik Vikas Co-operative Society’’.
Dhobi Ghat is a 140 year old establishment. It was developed by the British East India Co. in 1858, to serve as a mass laundry for the British military. Post India’s independence from the British raj, Dhobi Ghat was authorized as an urban working community and the land was handed over to the Dhobi Ghat association (a group of residents of the Dhobi society). Later around 1993 as per revised development control regulations of Mumbai the site was designated under industrial reservation as DG (Dhobi Ghat) intended to protect/ prevent any form of private commercial redevelopment.
The Dhobi (which translates as 'Washer man') is a caste group who are specialists in washing clothes - the job is hereditary. Using 731 manual washing stones, these washer men work hard and complete all the tasks like collecting, segregating, washing, drying, cleaning, pressing and delivering on daily basis. These washer men are mostly migrants from other parts of India - who live in situ with their families. Most of them are migrants from neighboring states like Andhra, Gujarat but there was a time when majority of them were migrants from Uttar Pradesh. Most of them live at Dhobi Ghat itself and for majority of them; this art of washing clothes has been passed on from generation to generation. The linen collected daily comes from various sources from the city such as Mumbai’s hotels send their bedlinen to the Ghat; hospitals send in staff uniforms and sheets from their operating theatres; posh spas send their towels; and individuals send their household's dirty clothing. Some of the big clothing manufacturers even send brand new stock here to be washed so that the dies can be set. In this profession, where in dirty linen across Mumbai is collected, marked and then brought here, where they are soaked, scrubbed, flogged, cleaned, dried and pressed and then neatly folded and delivered back to their owners.
The interesting system exists here for preventing misplacing of clothes is, the clothes that are collected, are marked by indelible ink on small scraps of cotton and ties to the clothes which carries information like the name of the client, total number of clothes and individual item number. It works efficiently in terms of avoiding any loss and returning all the clothes to the original client.
Now days, even though automatic laundry machines are fitted, watching these men lined up for washing clothes gives the visual sense of order in the chaotic scenario of the Dhobi Ghat.
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| Source: http://wearethecity.in |
The other important thing that makes Dhobi Ghat remarkable is that it holds a Guinness Book of World Records entry under ‘most people hand-washing clothes at a single location’ (496) in 2011. In 2013, World Records India and World Amazing Records honored World Record Certificate to Dhobi Kalyan & Audhyogik Vikas Co – op. Society Ltd. |
| Middle Tier |
Dhobi Ghat is under Brihan Mumbai Municipal Corporation (BMC) which charges the washer men Rs. 300 per month for the rent and maintenance of the trough (wash pens). As of day customers from various sectors get their clothes and other garments washed here at reasonable price. Private laundry around city charges anything between Rs.35 to Rs.50 to their customers and get the same clothes to be washed here at Dhobi Ghat at minimal charges of Rs.4 to Rs.5 per cloth and the interesting fact is that the Dhobi Kalyan & Audhyogik Vikas Cooperative Society, the apex body that represents washer men, estimates the annual turnover of the Mahalaxmi Dhobi Ghat at around Rs 100 crore.
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| The open to sky washing pens or Ghats has enclosed spaces around and drying platforms above. |
One of the notable figures of the society mentions about technological development and presence washing machines in every household, large hotels & hospitals installing their own laundries, business at Dhobi Ghat is not as thriving as it used to be. Dhobi Ghat still have range of customer from various industries and sectors like Wedding decorators, Events, Garment Dealers, Clubs, Small and Big Caterers, Many Hotels and more from South Mumbai till Far North Suburban and Beyond locations connecting Thane and Palghar district.
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| The small enclosed allies leading to open courtyards which are used as drying yards, creating the play of open and covered spaces. |
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| The semi covered spaces being used as a space for storage for collected linens. |
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The uppermost level is being used for drying of linens accessed by the ladders from the middle tier. |
The historic and large settlement of Dhobis has a very unique way of functioning. It is like a maze with the narrow lanes that leads to the open washing courts and also to upper tiers. The multi-tasking, chaotic space with washing, sorting, and ironing works happening all around, works very efficiently.
The entire work cycle of this watermen colony is very well balanced by the built spaces. The lower tier contains mainly the washing area which is open to sky with the built spaces around which are mainly the residential spaces but also includes the space for various supporting tasks like segregation, storage and ironing. The middle tiers which can be accessed through ladders have drying spaces and dwelling units. While the uppermost tier which is the roof of the enclosed spaces is the complete drying space having vibrant and colorful views and eventually turns out to be the circulation of that
level.
The city as a total entity, in its entirety, is only a notion, an abstraction, not something really known or grasped. Like space, time also is constructed and organized by the urban (commercial – industrial) agglomeration in a characteristic manner. Economic activity and management of time defines rhythm of life. The three factors i.e. space, time and rhythm are crucial in many ways. These factors have a direct, dramatic, physical impact on life (Pendse S.) and the impact of these factors can be clearly seen in Dhobi Ghat. The Dhobi Ghat is now a favorite with tourists visiting Mumbai - in fact it is amongst the top 10 attractions in the city. The dramatic location and the functioning of the Dhobi Ghat, makes it the hub of toilers and these toilers, the anonymous and ignored face of city eventually completes the city.
Address: Dr. E. Moses Road, Near Mahalakshmi Station, Mumbai-400011
Visit duration: 2 to 3 hours
Best time to visit: The best time to visit Dhobi Ghat is early morning and early
afternoon. While the Dhobis are in action in the morning to take care of the washing
load, the early afternoons are an ideal time to see the clothes dry.
Timings: Open all days
Entry fee: Free (But you can request for a paid guided tour)
An entry charge of Rs.100-200 has to be paid to the guides who give a detailed tour of the entire place along with the suitable and relevant information.
How to Reach: The closest station to reach Dhobi Ghat is Mahalakshmi station on the
Western line. Once you de-board at Mahalakshmi, walk out of the station premises and
take a left on the bridge. It connects to the flyover that will take you to Saat Rasta,
where Dhobi Ghat is located.
For those coming from Central or Harbour line, Byculla station would be the most
convenient option available from where Dhobi Ghat is just a 10 minute walk.
Bibliography:
Bombay: The metaphor for modern India, edited by-Sujata Patel & Alice Thorner,
article 1,toil, sweat & the city by Sandeep Pendse
https://www.theglobeandmail.com/report-on-business/mumbai-boasts-the-worldslargest-
open-air-laundry/article637392/
https://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/city/mumbai/did-you-know-dhobi-ghat-stillmakes-
rs-100cr-a-year/articleshow/57352659.cms
http://www.worldrecordsindia.com/2013/04/worlds-largest-outdoor-laundry-dhobighat
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