Dr.Bhau Daji Lad City Museum: Mumbai’s Showcase

I remember my visit to ‘Rani chi Baag’ as a kid on a school trip. Exited and eager, we all rushed into the garden to meet roaring lions and chirping birds, ignoring the silent museum at the corner completely. It took many years for so many of us to realize that the equally important museum has a lot to say.

Rani Baag (previously known as Victoria Gardens and now Jijamata Udyan) is a garden with Zoo and a City museum located right in the middle of buzzing city at Byculla, Mumbai. The curious visit to the ignored silent museum revealed that the place has lot more things to see than the greenery, birds and animals; it presents you the whole city of Mumbai along with it, making the place incomplete without visiting it.

Facade of Dr. Bhau Daji Lad Museum (source- Chinmay P.)

Being the oldest the Dr. Bhau Daji Lad Museum opened to the public in 1857. It is the erstwhile Victoria and Albert Museum, Bombay. As it was the first colonial building to be built for the specific purpose of housing a museum, the building is one of the most important historical sites of the city. Bombay, then the richest mercantile town in India, was considered the Gateway to the East or Urbs Prima in India, the first city of India, and had the honour of exhibiting to the world the country’s rich cultural traditions. A little more than a hundred years later, on November 1, 1975, the Museum was renamed the Dr. Bhau Daji Lad Museum in honour of the man whose vision and dedication enabled

its establishment. Dr. Bhau Daji Lad was the first Indian Sheriff of Mumbai, a philanthropist, historian, physician, surgeon and secretary of the Museum Committee when it was first instituted.

Recently, it was restored and pulled out from the state of disrepair by INTACH. The brilliant restoration of this Mumbai City museum grabbed the attention of the people and reconnected it to the city.

The Museum building was conceived to dazzle the citizens. During the efforts to raise funds by public subscription, it was presented as a ‘Hall of Wonder’, as most of the citizens had never seen a museum. The original design was conceptualized by George Birdwood. The design included all the basic features of the building visible today- a long hall, Doric pillars, galleries on either side of the building and large windows for light and ventilation. The design was sent to London for approval, and later modified by the local British PWD engineer to rival the best in the world. However, the engineer died before the plans could be implemented and Scott McClelland & Co. architects completed the plans with further modifications though they retained most of Birdwood’s specifications.

As soon as you enter inside, the grand double height large hall with beautifully carved ceiling and large marble statues at the center takes you back in the colonial period. The impressive displays inside the museum bring the history back to you. The clay miniatures showing the diverse communities of the city in their traditional garb (both the natives and the migrants), lithographs, dioramas, rare books, photographs and decorative art objects such as miniature clay models that document the rural life of India and city life during the 19th and 20th centuries in Mumbai are simply magnificent. The first floor has the history of Mumbai with many ship models on display. Through the various maps & models it documents everything about the city of Mumbai – the islands that came together to make this iconic city.

Clay miniatures

Mumbai Devi I

model of Parsi colony scheme 

 

Surprisingly in small showcases, it documents the traditional professions and games of the city like basket weavers, potters, barbers, cowherds, bangle seller, dyers etc. Thus, truly preserving and presenting the culture for future generations. Along with that there are mythological scenes from Ramayana and Mahabharata. There are models of all important pilgrim places showcasing the holy side of the Indian culture and the city.

 

View from the First floor

The unique structure has a Palladian exterior. The interior is a rare example of High Victorian design in India. The grand wrought iron palisades, staircase railings and arched supports, as well as the Corinthian capitals and columns which are the defining features of the building were imported from England. The richly coloured details, the intricate woodcarving, the Minton tiled floors, the etched glass and gold gilding make it a unique example of 19th century architecture in the country. Near the main entrance, there is a splendid clock tower which is rich in architecture and aesthetics known as David Sassoon Clock Tower. The style of the tower is Italian; 12 feet square at the base by about 75 feet high. The base plinths are in trap stone, the body of Porebunder-stone, with ornamental tile panels occasionally introduced.

The impressive David Sassoon Clock Tower

The garden has an Ornamental Gateway and a curved design screen. It is enriched with a building in Greco-Roman style. Several trees of rare origins give the visitors shade and relief from the busy running city. As soon as you enter, on the left hand side there is one with interesting story. It is the stone statue of King Edward VII (as the then Prince of Wales) mounted on a horse that was built by Jewish businessman and philanthropist Albert Abdullah David Sassoon, it was initially located near the Jehangir art gallery in fort area of Mumbai and this was the reason the area got its name Kala Ghoda meaning Black Horse. Later this statue was removed from the precinct in 1965 and subsequently placed inside the Jijamata Udyan and for many years the place Kala Ghoda was without its identity & name. The area is still known as Kala ghoda and one of the most famous art Festival i.e. Kala Ghoda Art Festival is conducted every year at the same place. The popularity of the festival increased over the years and recently in January in 2017, the 'Kala Ghoda' under the name ‘Spirit of Kala Ghoda’ returned to the area with a new statue of a similar looking horse without a rider, being commissioned by the Kala Ghoda Association. The statue, titled 'Spirit of Kala Ghoda' was designed by architect Alfaz Miller and sculpted by Shreehari Bhosle.

Garden entry

Statue of King Edward VII

Sculpture of Rajmata Jijau & BaalShivaji

At the center of the park, there is a statue of Veer Mata Jijabai guiding Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj (BaalShivaji, in his childhood days) is one of my personal favorite sculptures, depicting a perfect motherhood as Rajmata. The zoo has a wide variety of animals including crocodile; hippos etc. and depict the natural wealth of India very well. But we intentionally entered inside to see the most awaited and new members of the city: penguins. at the one end of the garden there is a separate structure built recently named ‘Humboldt Penguin Section’ where they have

kept penguins in an controlled atmosphere.

This iconic museum stands in the midst of the Rajmata Jijabai Udyan, which is one of grandest and oldest zoos in India. This 52-acre, landscaped zoo and garden, is perhaps the only zoo in the world which stands right in the middle of a business metropolis like Mumbai. Over 150 years old, this museum is the oldest in Mumbai and the third oldest in India. It is the only city museum to win the UNESCO 2005 Asia Pacific Award of Excellence. By highlighting Mumbai’s cultural heritage through rare fine art, the museum does not only bring back the history of the city to you but it also celebrates the diversity of the city.

If you haven’t been here I feel you should add it to your wish list of Places to visit in Mumbai. There are many more astonishing elements in the museum for everyone. Rather mentioning here all I will let you discover it yourself. The most interesting part to me that the place is so calm but vibrant at the same time as it silently throws numerous surprises. The place is a living space with exhibitions, workshops, and even some courses. Apart from the permanent collection, the museum regularly organizes exhibitions of Indian contemporary artists. It gives you a reason to come back to it making it a thriving cultural space of Mumbai. As a true Mumbaikar, one must visit the museum, especially on weekends when there is a free tour by the curator.

DR. BHAU DAJI LAD MUSEUM

91 A, Rani Baug,

Veer Mata Jijbai Bhonsle Udyan,

Dr Baba Saheb Ambedkar Marg,

Byculla East,

Mumbai, Maharashtra 400027.

India.

Phone:

+91-22-23731234

+91-22-65560394

Visiting Hours:

10.00 am to 6.00 pm (Tickets sold upto 5:30 pm)

Closed on Wednesdays and certain public holidays

Tickets:

Adults Rs. 10

Children (5 to 15 years) Rs. 5

Students Rs. 2

Children (Under 5years & accompanied by parents) Free

Foreign Citizens Rs. 100

Children (5 to 15 years) Rs. 50

Children (Under 5years) Free

Bibliography:

http://www.bdlmuseum.org/about/museum-story.html http://www.vimlapatil.com/vimlablog/mumbais-iconic-bhau-daji-lad-museumrecommended-

by-new-york-times-as-one-of-mumbais-five-must-visitmonuments-

even-if-the-visit-is-only-for-36-hours/

The Bombay Builder: An Illustrated Journal of Engineering Architecture dated July 5,

1865 (pg.14).

Afghan Church: An Ancient Marker

Markers or Landmarks are the crucial part of our day to day life. They form cognitive anchors, or reference points for orientation, wayfinding and communication. They have no fixed scale as they are subjective. Landmarks are elements of the urban form containing design features that reinforce their uniqueness and memorability. Landmarks by their nature attract and hold people’s attention. Landmarks communicate to observers that they are a special place. Surrounding land use and building design provide a background context for the landmark, reinforcing its role as an important

visual element. Landmarks can also be defined as features with distinctive spatial features and by virtue of their colors, shape or semantic values have the potential to help people to orientate or find their way in the environment (Lynch, 1960; Tlauka and Wilson, 1994; Appleyard, 1970). Moughtin et al (1999) defines a landmark as an element or a group of coherent elements that can be singled out against a landscape background of repetitive detail. These are physical components “whose key physical characteristic…is singularity, some aspect that is unique or memorable in the context. Landmarks become more easily identifiable, more likely to be chosen as significant, if they have a clear form; if they contrast with their background; and if there is some prominence of spatial location.

Figure background contrast seems to be the principal factor”(Moughtin et al, 1999, pp.45). These definitions encompasses and representative of many traditional concepts of landmarks. This photo essay is a short tour to the heritage structure which as an important landmark in the history of the city.

Church today.

An old picture of the church. (Source http://discoverindiabyroad.blogspot.in/p/lost-mumbai.html)

Situated in the military cantonment area at the southernmost tip of the island city of Mumbai, Afghan church, the Grade I heritage structure is well known for its unique architecture and history. After crossing Colaba causeway we started walking down through the pleasant streets of Navy nagar, an old cantonment area established in 1796. The area houses the residences of naval officers and sailors. While engaged in experiencing the surrounding with some old structures, military memorials, soldiers moving around, we spotted a long tapering tower rising in the sky through trees and I realized the strength of the structure as a marker!

A Memorial park in Navy nagar. 

View from the road. 

Among the heritage landmarks that situated in the historic Colaba area, The Church of St. John the Evangelist also known as afghan church is a beautiful gothic structure dating to 1865. The first Anglican Church in the Navy Nagar district began as a small thatched chapel just about a kilometer south of its present day location. Later, the government released a new patch of land for the setting up the church with the elongated slender spire as a marker greeting ships as they enter the waters of Bombay’s natural harbour. The spire is clearly visible also from the Girgaon chowpatty near Malabar hills even today.

The church was built by the British to commemorate the dead of the First Afghan War and the disastrous 1842 retreat from Kabul. Memorials and laid up regimental colours displayed at the rear of the nave also record casualties from the Second Anglo- Afghan War. The construction of a new more permanent church in the 1840s was led by the Rev. George Piggot, Chaplain to the East India Company in Bombay. The immediate impetus for fundraising and construction was for the church to serve as the principal memorial to the casualties of the First Anglo-Afghan War. The retreat of the

British forces from Kabul in 1842 was described at the time as the worst disaster suffered by the British in India. The reason for constructing the church here in Mumbai that many of the casualties of

the conflict came from the East India Company's Bombay Army and military establishments located in proximity to the present church site.

Heavily ornamented entrance door.

The foundation stone of the church was laid on the 4 December 1847 by Sir George Russell Clerk, Governor. The church was consecrated on January 7, 1858, by Bishop of Bombay, John Harding but it was still incomplete. The spire cost a sum of Rs 5,65,000 and was finished on June 10, 1865 completing the overall construction of the church. The structure was constructed using locally available buff-coloured basalt and limestone makes façade look elegant. Inside it is known for its wide gothic arches and beautiful stained glass windows. The chapel has a nave and aisle with a chancel 50 ft (15 m) in length and 27 ft (7 m) in width. The materials used and minute detailing makes it a genuine art piece. Butterfield's tiles used for the geometric floor pattern were imported from England. Church’s windows are also one of the features creating a distinct identity of the structure. The east and west windows were designed by William Wailes, a nineteenth century stained glass expert. The light passing through these windows adds on to the calm ambience inside. The piers, arches, consignees and dressings are of Porbunder Stone. The roof is an open one of varnished teak-wood with a pitch of 50 feet and with height 60 feet. Eight large bells in the bell tower came from the Taylor bellfoundry of England in 1904, and are acknowledged to be the best in western India.The splendid tower and spire are 198 ft (60 m) high.

 Tower and Spire. 

buff-coloured basalt stone facade.

View of the Nave.

stained glass windows in chancel. 

In the chancel there is a huge commemorative plaque with the following words, "This church was built in memory of the officers whose names are written on the walls of the chancel and of the non commissioned officers and private soldiers, too many to be so recorded who fell, mindful of their duty, by sickness or by sword in the campaigns of Sind and Afghanistan, A.D. 1838-1843."

Buttresses supporting the wall.

Large trees in the surrounding.

Plaques placed inside the memorial.

Small memorial outside the church.

Architecturally, St. John's was not outstanding, but historically it was the first Church, erected in India along the lines laid down by the Ecclesiological society embodying the new principles of Gothic Architecture. In 1858, it was a novel architectural experiment in India but it paved the way for the high Victorian buildings both secular and ecclesiastical that were to become the hallmark of the British architecture, in India.

With the unique features St. John's Church was an important addition to the Churches in Mumbai, since its tall towers when spotted by the Sailors coming into Bombay by sea, gave them a sense of home coming as it represented the architecture that they had left behind at home. The calmness and serenity around St. John's Church created a spiritual haven for them.



Address: Navy Nagar, Colaba, South Mumbai, Maharashtra (India)– 400005.

Best time to visit: Tourists can visit this church at any time of the year. However, the
church surroundings bloom with joy during Christmas and new year. November to
January is the time when a large number of people flock to this church.

Timings: The church remains open all days of the week from 07:00 am to 06:30 pm
except Sunday. If you find the church close between these timings, then the church
caretaker will help you to open the door (he lives just next to the church).

Entry Fee / Ticket Charges: The entry is free to everyone. They do not take any sort of
entry charges.

Time Required: 1 Hour is sufficient to explore the Church and its surroundings.

How to Reach: The church is very near to the Colaba Causeway which is between
Colaba and Old Woman’s island. One can easily reach here by taking a cab from
anywhere in the city.
 Nearest Bus Stop: You can catch BEST Bus number 123 from Churchgate
station or Regal Cinema to reach the church.
 Nearest Railway Station: Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus on Central Railway is the
convenient railway station (6.5 km away) to reach Afghan church Mumbai.
Churchgate station on Western Railway is another option which is 3.5 km away.
Taxis are available outside the station which will take you to the church within 10
to 15 minutes.
 Nearest Airport: Mumbai Airport is the closest airport to the church. Airport is 27
km away from the church.

Bibliography:

- Morris, Jan (1983). Stones of Empire: The Buildings of the Raj (Reissue 2005ed.). Oxford: Oxford University Press. p. 189. ISBN 0-19-280596-7.

- "John Macduff Derick (c. 1805/6 - 1859) by Phil Mottram, 2004" (PDF). p. 41. Archived from the original (PDF) on September 28, 2011. Retrieved March17, 2011.

- Paul Thompson: "William Butterfield", Routledge & Kegan Paul, London, 1971, p.450 ISBN 0-7100-6930-8

- "Afghan church gets a glass makeover". Indian Express.

- "Day Five: The Prince and the Duchess Visit India". The Prince of Wales and The Duchess of Cornwall. Retrieved 13 October 2015.

- The Bombay Diocesan Trust Association Ltd.:http://www.bdtapvtltd.org/afghan.htm

- Kevin Lynch, Image of the City(1960)

VASAI FORT: A city in itself

Along with the various important aspects of forts like architecture, style of construction, location and purpose, the highlighting factor for any fort is the scale. Imagine a fort which is a home to 2400 soldiers, 3000 residents, nobles and artisans within its expanse. The scale is what defines the Vasai fort; spread over 110 acres of land and being the commercial, political and military base of the Portuguese in the north west coast of India for nearly 200 years the Vasai fort is not less than a city.

Ruins of the fort.

Vasai, also called bassein, lies about 50 kms north of Mumbai just across the Ulhas River. The name "bassein" is the English version of the Portuguese "baçaim". The Vasai fort in the old city was the headquarters of the Portuguese in the north, next in importance to Goa. The coastal land-fort of Vasai is surrounded by sea on three sides and to the landside it had a moat which was filled by sea-water. Its 4.5kms long strong stone wall have 11 bastions. The fort have two gates – the westward land-gate and a gate opens up towards the creek side on south. There is also a small citadel in the fort. Well – equipped with water-tanks, store-houses, armoury, etc., the fort also had fields for growing grains and vegetables.

old marketplace

Vasai came into prominence when the ancient harbor of Sopara (now nalsopara village, 10kms north of vasai) became unfit for use. The bassein region ruled by Portuguese in not just bassein but included areas far away as bombay, thane, kalyan and chaul (revdanda). Bassein, was important trading center, it’s sources of wealth and trade were horses, fish, salt, timber, stone quarry (basalt and granite) and shipbuilding. It was a significant trading center long before the Portuguese arrived.(Ancient sopara was a important port in trade with the arabs and greeks, romans and persians.). It was also a wealthy agricultural region with rice, betel nut, cotton, and sugar-cane as some of the crops. (vasaiker)My recent visit to the Vasai fort was a part of conservation studio in my course. It was an unplanned trip and we had no idea what to do after reaching Vasai station. We inquired about it to the local fellows, took a rickshaw as suggested by them and headed towards the fort. The journey from Vasai station to the fort was interesting. The dense development near the station eventually turned out in out in expansive salt pans and large open fields. As soon as we entered in the fortified area a large statue of Chimaji Appa (Peshwa Bajirao's brother) portraying the achievement of the great Maratha empire. We were dropped off near Vajreshwari temple- another sign of presence of Maratha empire which was built by Chimaji Appa and started walking toexplore the fort.

Statue of Chimaji Appa (source: Desmond Lobo)

Vajreshwari devi mandir built by chimaji appa in 1739 inside vasai fort

Within vasai’s walled perimeter the ruins of five convent complexes and their respective churches remain (augustinians, dominicans, franciscans, hospitallers and jesuits), as well as two other churches: saint joseph’s parish church east of the perimeter and, up against the original fort in the centre of town, what is most likely the old misericórdia church. (paulo varela gomes)

The fortification of saint Sebastian was the first defense structure built by the Portuguese in Vasai after they received that territory from the sultanate of Gujarat in 1534. As the settlement around the fort grew, a new and larger bastioned perimeter was begun about 20 years later. But this new defense

line took several decades to finish and until the early 1700s saint Sebastian's fort was the city’s only true defensive redoubt. It later lost its strategic value, though it continued to be used as the residence of Vasai’s captain. It is relatively well preserved, especially its main gate. The fort has the shape of an

irregular polygon with three round bastions, one rectangular redoubt, which includes the main gate, and a corner with no bastion where the captain’s house was located.

steps to fort parapet.

Entrance of The Citadel of Saint Sabestine

Watchtower in the citadel

Water body in the courtyard.

On the southeast side of the fortification is a square redoubt which contains an inscription dated 1536. The main entrance to saint sebastian’s fort is located near this bastion and bears the date 1606. Its design is closely related to the central part of the front of vasai’s jesuit church. On the north side are the stairs leading to the fort’s parapets. Nearby was the location of the city’s prison or jail, built between 1635 and 1639, according to gerson da cunha. The captain’s house began in the fort’s northeast corner; it was a two-storey building which rose above the wall parapets and accompanied it for 80 metres. (sidh losa mendiratta)

boys playing cricket inside the nave of the church

In one of the churches inside the fort i saw few guys playing cricket, being a cricket fan I found it interesting but i think for me it is always about respecting the heritage, the alteration in use of heritage is inevitable but not at the cost of vandalism. Vasai’s parish church i.e. the church of Saint Joseph was founded on a direct order from king joão iii to joão de castro in march 1546. Still standing are the side walls of the nave and chancel, the coffered barrel vault over the latter and a large part of the front (tower over ground floor narthex, high choir with arch facing the nave, campanile north of the tower in a slightly set-back position but at the same height). (paulo varela gomes)

church of Saint Joseph

View of the Vasai creek from the top of the Saint Joseph watchtower.

Due to the large expanse of the fort and absence of any map with us, we had no clue where we were leading. We were searching for the other gate to move out. When we went inside the St. Joseph’s church, we decided to climb to the top of the watchtower to get an idea of the surrounding and the right direction to move on. As soon as we reached there, the astonishing view of the Vasai creek made our journey paused for a while and showed us the way too ! The view of endless sea with boats reminded me it's historical importance that it was the main naval base and sort of ship-building center of the Portuguese. The end came in 1739, when Chimaji Appa, Peshwa Bajirao’s brother, stormed the fort and captured it with great loss of life. It was here in 1802, the Peshwa Bajirav ii signed the infamous “Treaty of Bassein” which virtually dissolved the Maratha confederacy. Finally, the fort and the city of Vasai was ceded to the British in 1817 ad.

The Southern Gate

 

Killa bunder (jetty).

In the fort several watch-towers still stand, with safe staircases leading up. Few structures like Vajreshwari temple, fortification are in good condition. The Portuguese buildings inside the fort are in ruins, although there are enough standing walls to give a good idea of the floor plans of these structures. Some have well-preserved facades too. In particular, many of the arches have weathered the years remarkably well. They are usually decorated with carved stones, some weathered beyond recognition, others still displaying sharp chisel marks. Three chapels inside the fort are still recognizable. They have facades typical of 17th-century Portuguese churches. The southernmost of these has a well-preserved barrel vaulted ceiling.

The fort is now also a famous location for shoot, the British rock band Coldplay have shot one of their songs here. Although it cannot be prevailing to the historical values attached to it, it is the new way to highlight the heritage and recreation of values and attachment (same in the case of Banganga tank). It is a good example of featuring heritage and creating awareness among the people for preserving the values and conserves it.

Address: Killa Road,Police Colony, Vasai West, Vasai, Maharashtra 401201

Timings: 9AM to 6PM

Famous for: Sightseeing, Historic significance, Beautiful ruins, Photography,
Experience Seeking and Wandering, Connoisseurs. Educational Experience

Entrance Fee: There is no entry fee to visit this beautiful fort.

Visiting Duration: Between 1-3 hours is the average time of duration that you might
spend frolicking about in the ruins here.

Best Time to Visit: The best time to visit the Bassein Fort is undoubtedly the monsoon
season. Months between July to January provide the most pleasurable ways to spend
your afternoon here.

How To reach: take a local train to reach Vasai road station then Take a rickshaw from
Vasai Station-west.

Bibliography:

http://www.vasaiker.com/index.php/history-of-vasai/

https://www.livehistoryindia.com/photo-essays/2017/06/06/vasai-a-city-within-a-fort

http://www.hpip.org/def/en/Contents/Navigation/GeographicToponymicNavigation/Place?a=567