DHOBI GHAT: The Splashing Core

“{The city} encompasses many different realities which seem distinct from and even opposed to each other, yet are all intricately interwoven in a many-layered mesh of interdependent relationships. Further these realities are not fixed. They change over time. The change is, on occasion, rapid. In other periods it is practically imperceptible. In times of relatively rapid change, it becomes even more difficult to understand the city as a whole, since different sections of the population and different aspects of life in the city evolve at different paces.” (Pendse S.) The cities always contain multiple sections of the population, multiple aspects of life and it is the place where imperceptible rapid changes are happening continuously thus, city remains an enigma! The cities can be very well described as complex structure of interdependent lives and Mumbai being the one of the major cities and economical capital, this description fits perfectly to it. The images of the city are complex and mostly self-perception of city’s elite. But not the major population of the city i.e. Toilers and they remain unrepresented, unknown and mostly ignored. Mumbai is always known for its working population, be it yesterday’s Mill workers or today's Dabbawalas who maintains the rhythm of the city life. But never get considered as city developers. Along with this, there is one more section working over years, performing hereditary tasks to serve the city in certain way; are Dhobis i.e. washer men of Dhobi Ghat.

Being the major landmark of the city the Dhobi Ghat is not only the world’s largest open air laundry but also home to one of the biggest laundrymen communities in Mumbai, India. Spread across 4 acres near the Mahalaxmi racecourse, it employs over 7500 migrant workers (about 200 washer-men families) who live and work on site for about 18-20 hours, washing lacs of clothes collected from all over the city. Dhobi Ghat of Mumbai is actually a registered organization called ’’Dhobi Kalyan & Audyogik Vikas Co-operative Society’’.

Dhobi Ghat is a 140 year old establishment. It was developed by the British East India Co. in 1858, to serve as a mass laundry for the British military. Post India’s independence from the British raj, Dhobi Ghat was authorized as an urban working community and the land was handed over to the Dhobi Ghat association (a group of residents of the Dhobi society). Later around 1993 as per revised development control regulations of Mumbai the site was designated under industrial reservation as DG (Dhobi Ghat) intended to protect/ prevent any form of private commercial redevelopment.

The Dhobi (which translates as 'Washer man') is a caste group who are specialists in washing clothes - the job is hereditary. Using 731 manual washing stones, these washer men work hard and complete all the tasks like collecting, segregating, washing, drying, cleaning, pressing and delivering on daily basis. These washer men are mostly migrants from other parts of India - who live in situ with their families. Most of them are migrants from neighboring states like Andhra, Gujarat but there was a time when majority of them were migrants from Uttar Pradesh. Most of them live at Dhobi Ghat itself and for majority of them; this art of washing clothes has been passed on from generation to generation. The linen collected daily comes from various sources from the city such as Mumbai’s hotels send their bedlinen to the Ghat; hospitals send in staff uniforms and sheets from their operating theatres; posh spas send their towels; and individuals send their household's dirty clothing. Some of the big clothing manufacturers even send brand new stock here to be washed so that the dies can be set. In this profession, where in dirty linen across Mumbai is collected, marked and then brought here, where they are soaked, scrubbed, flogged, cleaned, dried and pressed and then neatly folded and delivered back to their owners.

The interesting system exists here for preventing misplacing of clothes is, the clothes that are collected, are marked by indelible ink on small scraps of cotton and ties to the clothes which carries information like the name of the client, total number of clothes and individual item number. It works efficiently in terms of avoiding any loss and returning all the clothes to the original client.

Now days, even though automatic laundry machines are fitted, watching these men lined up for washing clothes gives the visual sense of order in the chaotic scenario of the Dhobi Ghat.

Source: http://wearethecity.in

The other important thing that makes Dhobi Ghat remarkable is that it holds a Guinness Book of World Records entry under ‘most people hand-washing clothes at a single location’ (496) in 2011. In 2013, World Records India and World Amazing Records honored World Record Certificate to Dhobi Kalyan & Audhyogik Vikas Co – op. Society Ltd.

Middle Tier

Dhobi Ghat is under Brihan Mumbai Municipal Corporation (BMC) which charges the washer men Rs. 300 per month for the rent and maintenance of the trough (wash pens). As of day customers from various sectors get their clothes and other garments washed here at reasonable price. Private laundry around city charges anything between Rs.35 to Rs.50 to their customers and get the same clothes to be washed here at Dhobi Ghat at minimal charges of Rs.4 to Rs.5 per cloth and the interesting fact is that the Dhobi Kalyan & Audhyogik Vikas Cooperative Society, the apex body that represents washer men, estimates the annual turnover of the Mahalaxmi Dhobi Ghat at around Rs 100 crore.

The open to sky washing pens or Ghats has enclosed spaces around and drying platforms above.

One of the notable figures of the society mentions about technological development and presence washing machines in every household, large hotels & hospitals installing their own laundries, business at Dhobi Ghat is not as thriving as it used to be. Dhobi Ghat still have range of customer from various industries and sectors like Wedding decorators, Events, Garment Dealers, Clubs, Small and Big Caterers, Many Hotels and more from South Mumbai till Far North Suburban and Beyond locations connecting Thane and Palghar district.

The small enclosed allies leading to open courtyards which are used as drying yards, creating the play of open and covered spaces.

The semi covered spaces being used as a space for storage for collected linens.

The uppermost level is being used for drying of linens accessed by the ladders from the middle tier.

The historic and large settlement of Dhobis has a very unique way of functioning. It is like a maze with the narrow lanes that leads to the open washing courts and also to upper tiers. The multi-tasking, chaotic space with washing, sorting, and ironing works happening all around, works very efficiently.

The entire work cycle of this watermen colony is very well balanced by the built spaces. The lower tier contains mainly the washing area which is open to sky with the built spaces around which are mainly the residential spaces but also includes the space for various supporting tasks like segregation, storage and ironing. The middle tiers which can be accessed through ladders have drying spaces and dwelling units. While the uppermost tier which is the roof of the enclosed spaces is the complete drying space having vibrant and colorful views and eventually turns out to be the circulation of that

level.

The city as a total entity, in its entirety, is only a notion, an abstraction, not something really known or grasped. Like space, time also is constructed and organized by the urban (commercial – industrial) agglomeration in a characteristic manner. Economic activity and management of time defines rhythm of life. The three factors i.e. space, time and rhythm are crucial in many ways. These factors have a direct, dramatic, physical impact on life (Pendse S.) and the impact of these factors can be clearly seen in Dhobi Ghat. The Dhobi Ghat is now a favorite with tourists visiting Mumbai - in fact it is amongst the top 10 attractions in the city. The dramatic location and the functioning of the Dhobi Ghat, makes it the hub of toilers and these toilers, the anonymous and ignored face of city eventually completes the city.

Address: Dr. E. Moses Road, Near Mahalakshmi Station, Mumbai-400011

Visit duration: 2 to 3 hours

Best time to visit: The best time to visit Dhobi Ghat is early morning and early

afternoon. While the Dhobis are in action in the morning to take care of the washing

load, the early afternoons are an ideal time to see the clothes dry.

Timings: Open all days

Entry fee: Free (But you can request for a paid guided tour) 

An entry charge of Rs.100-200 has to be paid to the guides who give a detailed tour of the entire place along with the suitable and relevant information.

How to Reach: The closest station to reach Dhobi Ghat is Mahalakshmi station on the

Western line. Once you de-board at Mahalakshmi, walk out of the station premises and

take a left on the bridge. It connects to the flyover that will take you to Saat Rasta,

where Dhobi Ghat is located.

For those coming from Central or Harbour line, Byculla station would be the most

convenient option available from where Dhobi Ghat is just a 10 minute walk.

Bibliography:

 Bombay: The metaphor for modern India, edited by-Sujata Patel & Alice Thorner,

article 1,toil, sweat & the city by Sandeep Pendse

 https://www.theglobeandmail.com/report-on-business/mumbai-boasts-the-worldslargest-

open-air-laundry/article637392/

 https://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/city/mumbai/did-you-know-dhobi-ghat-stillmakes-

rs-100cr-a-year/articleshow/57352659.cms

 http://www.worldrecordsindia.com/2013/04/worlds-largest-outdoor-laundry-dhobighat

Dr.Bhau Daji Lad City Museum: Mumbai’s Showcase

I remember my visit to ‘Rani chi Baag’ as a kid on a school trip. Exited and eager, we all rushed into the garden to meet roaring lions and chirping birds, ignoring the silent museum at the corner completely. It took many years for so many of us to realize that the equally important museum has a lot to say.

Rani Baag (previously known as Victoria Gardens and now Jijamata Udyan) is a garden with Zoo and a City museum located right in the middle of buzzing city at Byculla, Mumbai. The curious visit to the ignored silent museum revealed that the place has lot more things to see than the greenery, birds and animals; it presents you the whole city of Mumbai along with it, making the place incomplete without visiting it.

Facade of Dr. Bhau Daji Lad Museum (source- Chinmay P.)

Being the oldest the Dr. Bhau Daji Lad Museum opened to the public in 1857. It is the erstwhile Victoria and Albert Museum, Bombay. As it was the first colonial building to be built for the specific purpose of housing a museum, the building is one of the most important historical sites of the city. Bombay, then the richest mercantile town in India, was considered the Gateway to the East or Urbs Prima in India, the first city of India, and had the honour of exhibiting to the world the country’s rich cultural traditions. A little more than a hundred years later, on November 1, 1975, the Museum was renamed the Dr. Bhau Daji Lad Museum in honour of the man whose vision and dedication enabled

its establishment. Dr. Bhau Daji Lad was the first Indian Sheriff of Mumbai, a philanthropist, historian, physician, surgeon and secretary of the Museum Committee when it was first instituted.

Recently, it was restored and pulled out from the state of disrepair by INTACH. The brilliant restoration of this Mumbai City museum grabbed the attention of the people and reconnected it to the city.

The Museum building was conceived to dazzle the citizens. During the efforts to raise funds by public subscription, it was presented as a ‘Hall of Wonder’, as most of the citizens had never seen a museum. The original design was conceptualized by George Birdwood. The design included all the basic features of the building visible today- a long hall, Doric pillars, galleries on either side of the building and large windows for light and ventilation. The design was sent to London for approval, and later modified by the local British PWD engineer to rival the best in the world. However, the engineer died before the plans could be implemented and Scott McClelland & Co. architects completed the plans with further modifications though they retained most of Birdwood’s specifications.

As soon as you enter inside, the grand double height large hall with beautifully carved ceiling and large marble statues at the center takes you back in the colonial period. The impressive displays inside the museum bring the history back to you. The clay miniatures showing the diverse communities of the city in their traditional garb (both the natives and the migrants), lithographs, dioramas, rare books, photographs and decorative art objects such as miniature clay models that document the rural life of India and city life during the 19th and 20th centuries in Mumbai are simply magnificent. The first floor has the history of Mumbai with many ship models on display. Through the various maps & models it documents everything about the city of Mumbai – the islands that came together to make this iconic city.

Clay miniatures

Mumbai Devi I

model of Parsi colony scheme 

 

Surprisingly in small showcases, it documents the traditional professions and games of the city like basket weavers, potters, barbers, cowherds, bangle seller, dyers etc. Thus, truly preserving and presenting the culture for future generations. Along with that there are mythological scenes from Ramayana and Mahabharata. There are models of all important pilgrim places showcasing the holy side of the Indian culture and the city.

 

View from the First floor

The unique structure has a Palladian exterior. The interior is a rare example of High Victorian design in India. The grand wrought iron palisades, staircase railings and arched supports, as well as the Corinthian capitals and columns which are the defining features of the building were imported from England. The richly coloured details, the intricate woodcarving, the Minton tiled floors, the etched glass and gold gilding make it a unique example of 19th century architecture in the country. Near the main entrance, there is a splendid clock tower which is rich in architecture and aesthetics known as David Sassoon Clock Tower. The style of the tower is Italian; 12 feet square at the base by about 75 feet high. The base plinths are in trap stone, the body of Porebunder-stone, with ornamental tile panels occasionally introduced.

The impressive David Sassoon Clock Tower

The garden has an Ornamental Gateway and a curved design screen. It is enriched with a building in Greco-Roman style. Several trees of rare origins give the visitors shade and relief from the busy running city. As soon as you enter, on the left hand side there is one with interesting story. It is the stone statue of King Edward VII (as the then Prince of Wales) mounted on a horse that was built by Jewish businessman and philanthropist Albert Abdullah David Sassoon, it was initially located near the Jehangir art gallery in fort area of Mumbai and this was the reason the area got its name Kala Ghoda meaning Black Horse. Later this statue was removed from the precinct in 1965 and subsequently placed inside the Jijamata Udyan and for many years the place Kala Ghoda was without its identity & name. The area is still known as Kala ghoda and one of the most famous art Festival i.e. Kala Ghoda Art Festival is conducted every year at the same place. The popularity of the festival increased over the years and recently in January in 2017, the 'Kala Ghoda' under the name ‘Spirit of Kala Ghoda’ returned to the area with a new statue of a similar looking horse without a rider, being commissioned by the Kala Ghoda Association. The statue, titled 'Spirit of Kala Ghoda' was designed by architect Alfaz Miller and sculpted by Shreehari Bhosle.

Garden entry

Statue of King Edward VII

Sculpture of Rajmata Jijau & BaalShivaji

At the center of the park, there is a statue of Veer Mata Jijabai guiding Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj (BaalShivaji, in his childhood days) is one of my personal favorite sculptures, depicting a perfect motherhood as Rajmata. The zoo has a wide variety of animals including crocodile; hippos etc. and depict the natural wealth of India very well. But we intentionally entered inside to see the most awaited and new members of the city: penguins. at the one end of the garden there is a separate structure built recently named ‘Humboldt Penguin Section’ where they have

kept penguins in an controlled atmosphere.

This iconic museum stands in the midst of the Rajmata Jijabai Udyan, which is one of grandest and oldest zoos in India. This 52-acre, landscaped zoo and garden, is perhaps the only zoo in the world which stands right in the middle of a business metropolis like Mumbai. Over 150 years old, this museum is the oldest in Mumbai and the third oldest in India. It is the only city museum to win the UNESCO 2005 Asia Pacific Award of Excellence. By highlighting Mumbai’s cultural heritage through rare fine art, the museum does not only bring back the history of the city to you but it also celebrates the diversity of the city.

If you haven’t been here I feel you should add it to your wish list of Places to visit in Mumbai. There are many more astonishing elements in the museum for everyone. Rather mentioning here all I will let you discover it yourself. The most interesting part to me that the place is so calm but vibrant at the same time as it silently throws numerous surprises. The place is a living space with exhibitions, workshops, and even some courses. Apart from the permanent collection, the museum regularly organizes exhibitions of Indian contemporary artists. It gives you a reason to come back to it making it a thriving cultural space of Mumbai. As a true Mumbaikar, one must visit the museum, especially on weekends when there is a free tour by the curator.

DR. BHAU DAJI LAD MUSEUM

91 A, Rani Baug,

Veer Mata Jijbai Bhonsle Udyan,

Dr Baba Saheb Ambedkar Marg,

Byculla East,

Mumbai, Maharashtra 400027.

India.

Phone:

+91-22-23731234

+91-22-65560394

Visiting Hours:

10.00 am to 6.00 pm (Tickets sold upto 5:30 pm)

Closed on Wednesdays and certain public holidays

Tickets:

Adults Rs. 10

Children (5 to 15 years) Rs. 5

Students Rs. 2

Children (Under 5years & accompanied by parents) Free

Foreign Citizens Rs. 100

Children (5 to 15 years) Rs. 50

Children (Under 5years) Free

Bibliography:

http://www.bdlmuseum.org/about/museum-story.html http://www.vimlapatil.com/vimlablog/mumbais-iconic-bhau-daji-lad-museumrecommended-

by-new-york-times-as-one-of-mumbais-five-must-visitmonuments-

even-if-the-visit-is-only-for-36-hours/

The Bombay Builder: An Illustrated Journal of Engineering Architecture dated July 5,

1865 (pg.14).

BANDRA FORT: Castella de Aguada

Conservation of cultural heritage is essential because it provides us with greater understanding of our identity, of continuity, of the human condition and of our place in the world and in time (Randall mason, Erica Avrami). Values are the most significant aspect in the heritage conservation. In the field of cultural heritage conservation, values are critical to deciding what to conserve, how to conserve and what would be the best that will represent us and our past to future generations.

Conservation decision depends on different and divergent values that needed to be considered like the artistic and aesthetic values of an old building, as well as the historical values of its associations, plus the economic values tied up in its use, environmental values to the ecosystem as well as social, cultural, religious and political values to different stakeholders associated to it. Thus, these different ways of valuing in turn lead to different approaches to preserving heritage.

Forts have been always fascinated to me. The walls of the forts whether standing still or ruined speak a lot. Thus it connects you to the space and the history as well. Forts were built by various rulers with various scales, styles of construction, architecture and for various purposes on various locations. Forts those were built along the seashores were mainly used for security and defense purpose. Mumbai is made up of 7 islands, and was separated from main land due to Mahim creek. This was an important trade route, and the Mahim fort was built to safeguard it. The Portuguese in 1640 built Bandra fort near today’s Bandra reclamation (formerly a part of Salsette island) as a watchtower overlooking Mahim Bay, the Arabian Sea and the southern island of Mahim & to make this region more safe. The Portuguese built this strategically located fort as an outpost, marking the southernmost tip of the mainland. Fresh water springs located close to the fort served as a potable water point when they sailed across. They exist to this day, but now serve an entirely different group of people i.e. the local fishermen (As per the plaque placed inside the fort). This shows how the different values are attached to it such as Political value to the defenders of the land at that time, Environmental value as it served as a source of fresh water then till today and Historical value of it today for the city and its people as a landmark of various events. Forts had been very crucial structures earlier due to the functions and benefits associated with it but over the period of time the values attached to any structure may get changed, altered or added depending upon the society. Thus it depend on the values people draw from them, the functions heritage objects serve for society, the uses to which heritage is put, are the real source of the meaning of heritage.

The plaque placed inside the fort premises. (Source: Author)

Walking down along the Bandstand on the very active B. J. Road, one could find numerous eateries offering variety of street food with glimpse of Sea in between. As soon as you come near hotel Taj Lands End you could see the tip of the massive structure of Bandra- Worli Sea Link: the urban spectacle, which seems very attractive and it pulls you towards it.

Among all the forts I have visited till now, Bandra Fort exhibits a very unique character. It appears as a very famous ‘Public Space’ than just a ‘Tourist Place’ unlike other forts. The interrelationship between time and space is so closely knit that clearly shows the difference in each of these with respect to other. The forts that were once built for defense in due course of time have changed its purpose of serving to the society. Transition from a very rigid and disciplinary space to a casual hangout place is very interesting factor associated to it. This can be evidently seen through today’s scenario in the form of space occupation and its use by the people. The earlier Political value of the space have totally transformed into the Heritage and Social value as it has turned out to be one of the prominent public spaces in the city today. I frequently visit the place and every time I go I find few interesting activities such as Bollywood movie shoots, pre-wedding photo shoots, various shows at Amphitheatre and sometimes an artist showing his skills on guitar and singing with a passion that could create a large crowd standing around him and appreciate.

Eateries along the BJ Road. (Source: Author)

Road along Hotel Taj Lands End leading to the fort and the tip of the Sea link at the background. (Source: Author)

The Cultural significance and Social values then become crucial as it defines why an object or place is meaningful, to whom, for whom it is conserved, the impact of interventions on how it is understood or perceived, etc. “Heritage is never merely conserved or protected; it is modified both enhanced and degraded by each new generation” (David Lowenthal). The modifications can be clearly seen on site to accommodate the modified purpose. Addition of gardens, seating areas, and Amphitheatre is inevitable when it has to serve the society as a public space to sit, eat, chit-chat and hangout. That is how Values and valuing processes are threaded through the various spheres of conservation plays an enormous role, whether works of art or buildings, the products of material culture have different meanings and uses for different individuals and communities. The various values always give significance over other aspects and thereby transform some objects and places into “heritage’’. The ultimate aim of conservation is to maintain (and shape) the values embodied by the place through physical interventions or treatment. Thus it is necessary to examine why and how heritage is valued, and by whom.

Amphitheatre: creating platform for various activities. (Source: Author)

Seating provided along the slope.

(Source: Author)

The small gate along with few food stalls allows you to enter inside the premises and then the view of the fort remains along with the Sea link and large expanse of the Arabian Sea with strong breezes blows your mind. The new layer recently added to this space in the form of Bandra-Worli sea link which is the ‘’Iconic’’ structure of the city runs just next to the fort in the Mahim bay and offers eye catching view of it from the fort. Creating a unique blend of old and new, this element succeeded to draw not only a large amount of people throughout the city but also Bollywood film-makers to this place for filming. This eventually ended up by giving new values to this space such as Associational value because of certain recognition and Economic value in the form of revenues and various food/snack stalls that lined up and other hawking businesses to serve the increased visitors.

The food stalls near the entry.

(Source: Author)

Viw after entering inside. (Source: Author)

The tiny entrance leads to the small open area with stone fencing always reminds me of famous song of one of the movies shot here. The fort has the few steps leading to top which allows a dramatic view of the premises. You could find people sitting on the edges along the steps which are the best spots where one can get magnificent view of the Sea link. I visited the fort at the time of low tide and I could see a large amount of folks got down on the rocks to get nearer to the sea and spending time sitting there.

                                                                       

Entry leading to small open area inside. (Source: Author)

Steps inside with entrance and view of the Sea link at the background. (Source: Wikipedia)

People seating on the rocks during low tide. (source: Author)

 The open area inside with people enjoying the view (Source: Author)

People seating along the steps and Hotel Taj Lands End at the background. (Source: Author)

Cultural significance is the term that defines the multiple values ascribed to objects, buildings, or landscapes. Thus Conservation does not become objective; it is biased by the values and perspectives of various individuals and interest groups. This can be understood by stakeholders’ values, which define their goals and motivate their actions, provides critical insight for the long-term, strategic management of heritage resources by both the private and the public sectors. The residents of this area, meanwhile, have fought hard and long to reclaim this area, which is now maintained by the Bandra Bandstand Residents Trust (BBRT). As they have mentioned that they have taken up the maintenance of the fort for last 15 years as well as they don’t want to close this chapter of the history and make it available for future generations (The Indian Express). This clearly illustrates that the values of individuals and communities be they conservators, anthropologists, ethnic groups, politicians, or otherwise shapes all conservation and in the conservation process, these values, as represented in the object or place, are not simply “preserved” but are, rather, modified. The meaning of the object or place is redefined, and new values are sometimes created.

The board placed inside by BBRT. (Source: Author)

Cultural heritage thus become important because of the meanings and uses that people attach to these material goods and the values they represent. These meanings, uses, and values must be understood as part of the larger sphere of sociocultural processes and as society changes the role of conservation and the opportunities for conservation to shape and support civil society also changes.

The splendid view of the Sea link. (Source: Author)

Address: Bandstand Road, Mt Mary, Bandra West, Mumbai, Maharashtra 400050,
India

Timings: All days of the week 10:00 AM - 8:00 PM

Visiting Duration: Between 30minutes to 1 hour

Entry Fee: no entry fees

How To reach: Take a train to Bandra West then taxi or auto rickshaw to Taj Lands

End hotel or Bandra fort By Bus station: Father Agnel Ashram

Bibliography :

Randall mason, Erica Avrami. (May, 2000). Heritage values and challenges in conservation planning. (International workshop on Management planning for archeological sites)

David Lowenthal, (2000), Chapter: Stewarding the Past in a Perplexing Present. Book: Values and Heritage Conservation Research Report, The Getty Conservation Institute, Los Angeles.


Stay tuned to explore some more interesting places, with interesting facts. Keep reading. MonumentzMan will be back very soon. Follow on twitter @monumentzman.