Afghan Church: An Ancient Marker

Markers or Landmarks are the crucial part of our day to day life. They form cognitive anchors, or reference points for orientation, wayfinding and communication. They have no fixed scale as they are subjective. Landmarks are elements of the urban form containing design features that reinforce their uniqueness and memorability. Landmarks by their nature attract and hold people’s attention. Landmarks communicate to observers that they are a special place. Surrounding land use and building design provide a background context for the landmark, reinforcing its role as an important

visual element. Landmarks can also be defined as features with distinctive spatial features and by virtue of their colors, shape or semantic values have the potential to help people to orientate or find their way in the environment (Lynch, 1960; Tlauka and Wilson, 1994; Appleyard, 1970). Moughtin et al (1999) defines a landmark as an element or a group of coherent elements that can be singled out against a landscape background of repetitive detail. These are physical components “whose key physical characteristic…is singularity, some aspect that is unique or memorable in the context. Landmarks become more easily identifiable, more likely to be chosen as significant, if they have a clear form; if they contrast with their background; and if there is some prominence of spatial location.

Figure background contrast seems to be the principal factor”(Moughtin et al, 1999, pp.45). These definitions encompasses and representative of many traditional concepts of landmarks. This photo essay is a short tour to the heritage structure which as an important landmark in the history of the city.

Church today.

An old picture of the church. (Source http://discoverindiabyroad.blogspot.in/p/lost-mumbai.html)

Situated in the military cantonment area at the southernmost tip of the island city of Mumbai, Afghan church, the Grade I heritage structure is well known for its unique architecture and history. After crossing Colaba causeway we started walking down through the pleasant streets of Navy nagar, an old cantonment area established in 1796. The area houses the residences of naval officers and sailors. While engaged in experiencing the surrounding with some old structures, military memorials, soldiers moving around, we spotted a long tapering tower rising in the sky through trees and I realized the strength of the structure as a marker!

A Memorial park in Navy nagar. 

View from the road. 

Among the heritage landmarks that situated in the historic Colaba area, The Church of St. John the Evangelist also known as afghan church is a beautiful gothic structure dating to 1865. The first Anglican Church in the Navy Nagar district began as a small thatched chapel just about a kilometer south of its present day location. Later, the government released a new patch of land for the setting up the church with the elongated slender spire as a marker greeting ships as they enter the waters of Bombay’s natural harbour. The spire is clearly visible also from the Girgaon chowpatty near Malabar hills even today.

The church was built by the British to commemorate the dead of the First Afghan War and the disastrous 1842 retreat from Kabul. Memorials and laid up regimental colours displayed at the rear of the nave also record casualties from the Second Anglo- Afghan War. The construction of a new more permanent church in the 1840s was led by the Rev. George Piggot, Chaplain to the East India Company in Bombay. The immediate impetus for fundraising and construction was for the church to serve as the principal memorial to the casualties of the First Anglo-Afghan War. The retreat of the

British forces from Kabul in 1842 was described at the time as the worst disaster suffered by the British in India. The reason for constructing the church here in Mumbai that many of the casualties of

the conflict came from the East India Company's Bombay Army and military establishments located in proximity to the present church site.

Heavily ornamented entrance door.

The foundation stone of the church was laid on the 4 December 1847 by Sir George Russell Clerk, Governor. The church was consecrated on January 7, 1858, by Bishop of Bombay, John Harding but it was still incomplete. The spire cost a sum of Rs 5,65,000 and was finished on June 10, 1865 completing the overall construction of the church. The structure was constructed using locally available buff-coloured basalt and limestone makes façade look elegant. Inside it is known for its wide gothic arches and beautiful stained glass windows. The chapel has a nave and aisle with a chancel 50 ft (15 m) in length and 27 ft (7 m) in width. The materials used and minute detailing makes it a genuine art piece. Butterfield's tiles used for the geometric floor pattern were imported from England. Church’s windows are also one of the features creating a distinct identity of the structure. The east and west windows were designed by William Wailes, a nineteenth century stained glass expert. The light passing through these windows adds on to the calm ambience inside. The piers, arches, consignees and dressings are of Porbunder Stone. The roof is an open one of varnished teak-wood with a pitch of 50 feet and with height 60 feet. Eight large bells in the bell tower came from the Taylor bellfoundry of England in 1904, and are acknowledged to be the best in western India.The splendid tower and spire are 198 ft (60 m) high.

 Tower and Spire. 

buff-coloured basalt stone facade.

View of the Nave.

stained glass windows in chancel. 

In the chancel there is a huge commemorative plaque with the following words, "This church was built in memory of the officers whose names are written on the walls of the chancel and of the non commissioned officers and private soldiers, too many to be so recorded who fell, mindful of their duty, by sickness or by sword in the campaigns of Sind and Afghanistan, A.D. 1838-1843."

Buttresses supporting the wall.

Large trees in the surrounding.

Plaques placed inside the memorial.

Small memorial outside the church.

Architecturally, St. John's was not outstanding, but historically it was the first Church, erected in India along the lines laid down by the Ecclesiological society embodying the new principles of Gothic Architecture. In 1858, it was a novel architectural experiment in India but it paved the way for the high Victorian buildings both secular and ecclesiastical that were to become the hallmark of the British architecture, in India.

With the unique features St. John's Church was an important addition to the Churches in Mumbai, since its tall towers when spotted by the Sailors coming into Bombay by sea, gave them a sense of home coming as it represented the architecture that they had left behind at home. The calmness and serenity around St. John's Church created a spiritual haven for them.



Address: Navy Nagar, Colaba, South Mumbai, Maharashtra (India)– 400005.

Best time to visit: Tourists can visit this church at any time of the year. However, the
church surroundings bloom with joy during Christmas and new year. November to
January is the time when a large number of people flock to this church.

Timings: The church remains open all days of the week from 07:00 am to 06:30 pm
except Sunday. If you find the church close between these timings, then the church
caretaker will help you to open the door (he lives just next to the church).

Entry Fee / Ticket Charges: The entry is free to everyone. They do not take any sort of
entry charges.

Time Required: 1 Hour is sufficient to explore the Church and its surroundings.

How to Reach: The church is very near to the Colaba Causeway which is between
Colaba and Old Woman’s island. One can easily reach here by taking a cab from
anywhere in the city.
 Nearest Bus Stop: You can catch BEST Bus number 123 from Churchgate
station or Regal Cinema to reach the church.
 Nearest Railway Station: Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus on Central Railway is the
convenient railway station (6.5 km away) to reach Afghan church Mumbai.
Churchgate station on Western Railway is another option which is 3.5 km away.
Taxis are available outside the station which will take you to the church within 10
to 15 minutes.
 Nearest Airport: Mumbai Airport is the closest airport to the church. Airport is 27
km away from the church.

Bibliography:

- Morris, Jan (1983). Stones of Empire: The Buildings of the Raj (Reissue 2005ed.). Oxford: Oxford University Press. p. 189. ISBN 0-19-280596-7.

- "John Macduff Derick (c. 1805/6 - 1859) by Phil Mottram, 2004" (PDF). p. 41. Archived from the original (PDF) on September 28, 2011. Retrieved March17, 2011.

- Paul Thompson: "William Butterfield", Routledge & Kegan Paul, London, 1971, p.450 ISBN 0-7100-6930-8

- "Afghan church gets a glass makeover". Indian Express.

- "Day Five: The Prince and the Duchess Visit India". The Prince of Wales and The Duchess of Cornwall. Retrieved 13 October 2015.

- The Bombay Diocesan Trust Association Ltd.:http://www.bdtapvtltd.org/afghan.htm

- Kevin Lynch, Image of the City(1960)

VASAI FORT: A city in itself

Along with the various important aspects of forts like architecture, style of construction, location and purpose, the highlighting factor for any fort is the scale. Imagine a fort which is a home to 2400 soldiers, 3000 residents, nobles and artisans within its expanse. The scale is what defines the Vasai fort; spread over 110 acres of land and being the commercial, political and military base of the Portuguese in the north west coast of India for nearly 200 years the Vasai fort is not less than a city.

Ruins of the fort.

Vasai, also called bassein, lies about 50 kms north of Mumbai just across the Ulhas River. The name "bassein" is the English version of the Portuguese "baçaim". The Vasai fort in the old city was the headquarters of the Portuguese in the north, next in importance to Goa. The coastal land-fort of Vasai is surrounded by sea on three sides and to the landside it had a moat which was filled by sea-water. Its 4.5kms long strong stone wall have 11 bastions. The fort have two gates – the westward land-gate and a gate opens up towards the creek side on south. There is also a small citadel in the fort. Well – equipped with water-tanks, store-houses, armoury, etc., the fort also had fields for growing grains and vegetables.

old marketplace

Vasai came into prominence when the ancient harbor of Sopara (now nalsopara village, 10kms north of vasai) became unfit for use. The bassein region ruled by Portuguese in not just bassein but included areas far away as bombay, thane, kalyan and chaul (revdanda). Bassein, was important trading center, it’s sources of wealth and trade were horses, fish, salt, timber, stone quarry (basalt and granite) and shipbuilding. It was a significant trading center long before the Portuguese arrived.(Ancient sopara was a important port in trade with the arabs and greeks, romans and persians.). It was also a wealthy agricultural region with rice, betel nut, cotton, and sugar-cane as some of the crops. (vasaiker)My recent visit to the Vasai fort was a part of conservation studio in my course. It was an unplanned trip and we had no idea what to do after reaching Vasai station. We inquired about it to the local fellows, took a rickshaw as suggested by them and headed towards the fort. The journey from Vasai station to the fort was interesting. The dense development near the station eventually turned out in out in expansive salt pans and large open fields. As soon as we entered in the fortified area a large statue of Chimaji Appa (Peshwa Bajirao's brother) portraying the achievement of the great Maratha empire. We were dropped off near Vajreshwari temple- another sign of presence of Maratha empire which was built by Chimaji Appa and started walking toexplore the fort.

Statue of Chimaji Appa (source: Desmond Lobo)

Vajreshwari devi mandir built by chimaji appa in 1739 inside vasai fort

Within vasai’s walled perimeter the ruins of five convent complexes and their respective churches remain (augustinians, dominicans, franciscans, hospitallers and jesuits), as well as two other churches: saint joseph’s parish church east of the perimeter and, up against the original fort in the centre of town, what is most likely the old misericórdia church. (paulo varela gomes)

The fortification of saint Sebastian was the first defense structure built by the Portuguese in Vasai after they received that territory from the sultanate of Gujarat in 1534. As the settlement around the fort grew, a new and larger bastioned perimeter was begun about 20 years later. But this new defense

line took several decades to finish and until the early 1700s saint Sebastian's fort was the city’s only true defensive redoubt. It later lost its strategic value, though it continued to be used as the residence of Vasai’s captain. It is relatively well preserved, especially its main gate. The fort has the shape of an

irregular polygon with three round bastions, one rectangular redoubt, which includes the main gate, and a corner with no bastion where the captain’s house was located.

steps to fort parapet.

Entrance of The Citadel of Saint Sabestine

Watchtower in the citadel

Water body in the courtyard.

On the southeast side of the fortification is a square redoubt which contains an inscription dated 1536. The main entrance to saint sebastian’s fort is located near this bastion and bears the date 1606. Its design is closely related to the central part of the front of vasai’s jesuit church. On the north side are the stairs leading to the fort’s parapets. Nearby was the location of the city’s prison or jail, built between 1635 and 1639, according to gerson da cunha. The captain’s house began in the fort’s northeast corner; it was a two-storey building which rose above the wall parapets and accompanied it for 80 metres. (sidh losa mendiratta)

boys playing cricket inside the nave of the church

In one of the churches inside the fort i saw few guys playing cricket, being a cricket fan I found it interesting but i think for me it is always about respecting the heritage, the alteration in use of heritage is inevitable but not at the cost of vandalism. Vasai’s parish church i.e. the church of Saint Joseph was founded on a direct order from king joão iii to joão de castro in march 1546. Still standing are the side walls of the nave and chancel, the coffered barrel vault over the latter and a large part of the front (tower over ground floor narthex, high choir with arch facing the nave, campanile north of the tower in a slightly set-back position but at the same height). (paulo varela gomes)

church of Saint Joseph

View of the Vasai creek from the top of the Saint Joseph watchtower.

Due to the large expanse of the fort and absence of any map with us, we had no clue where we were leading. We were searching for the other gate to move out. When we went inside the St. Joseph’s church, we decided to climb to the top of the watchtower to get an idea of the surrounding and the right direction to move on. As soon as we reached there, the astonishing view of the Vasai creek made our journey paused for a while and showed us the way too ! The view of endless sea with boats reminded me it's historical importance that it was the main naval base and sort of ship-building center of the Portuguese. The end came in 1739, when Chimaji Appa, Peshwa Bajirao’s brother, stormed the fort and captured it with great loss of life. It was here in 1802, the Peshwa Bajirav ii signed the infamous “Treaty of Bassein” which virtually dissolved the Maratha confederacy. Finally, the fort and the city of Vasai was ceded to the British in 1817 ad.

The Southern Gate

 

Killa bunder (jetty).

In the fort several watch-towers still stand, with safe staircases leading up. Few structures like Vajreshwari temple, fortification are in good condition. The Portuguese buildings inside the fort are in ruins, although there are enough standing walls to give a good idea of the floor plans of these structures. Some have well-preserved facades too. In particular, many of the arches have weathered the years remarkably well. They are usually decorated with carved stones, some weathered beyond recognition, others still displaying sharp chisel marks. Three chapels inside the fort are still recognizable. They have facades typical of 17th-century Portuguese churches. The southernmost of these has a well-preserved barrel vaulted ceiling.

The fort is now also a famous location for shoot, the British rock band Coldplay have shot one of their songs here. Although it cannot be prevailing to the historical values attached to it, it is the new way to highlight the heritage and recreation of values and attachment (same in the case of Banganga tank). It is a good example of featuring heritage and creating awareness among the people for preserving the values and conserves it.

Address: Killa Road,Police Colony, Vasai West, Vasai, Maharashtra 401201

Timings: 9AM to 6PM

Famous for: Sightseeing, Historic significance, Beautiful ruins, Photography,
Experience Seeking and Wandering, Connoisseurs. Educational Experience

Entrance Fee: There is no entry fee to visit this beautiful fort.

Visiting Duration: Between 1-3 hours is the average time of duration that you might
spend frolicking about in the ruins here.

Best Time to Visit: The best time to visit the Bassein Fort is undoubtedly the monsoon
season. Months between July to January provide the most pleasurable ways to spend
your afternoon here.

How To reach: take a local train to reach Vasai road station then Take a rickshaw from
Vasai Station-west.

Bibliography:

http://www.vasaiker.com/index.php/history-of-vasai/

https://www.livehistoryindia.com/photo-essays/2017/06/06/vasai-a-city-within-a-fort

http://www.hpip.org/def/en/Contents/Navigation/GeographicToponymicNavigation/Place?a=567

BANDRA FORT: Castella de Aguada

Conservation of cultural heritage is essential because it provides us with greater understanding of our identity, of continuity, of the human condition and of our place in the world and in time (Randall mason, Erica Avrami). Values are the most significant aspect in the heritage conservation. In the field of cultural heritage conservation, values are critical to deciding what to conserve, how to conserve and what would be the best that will represent us and our past to future generations.

Conservation decision depends on different and divergent values that needed to be considered like the artistic and aesthetic values of an old building, as well as the historical values of its associations, plus the economic values tied up in its use, environmental values to the ecosystem as well as social, cultural, religious and political values to different stakeholders associated to it. Thus, these different ways of valuing in turn lead to different approaches to preserving heritage.

Forts have been always fascinated to me. The walls of the forts whether standing still or ruined speak a lot. Thus it connects you to the space and the history as well. Forts were built by various rulers with various scales, styles of construction, architecture and for various purposes on various locations. Forts those were built along the seashores were mainly used for security and defense purpose. Mumbai is made up of 7 islands, and was separated from main land due to Mahim creek. This was an important trade route, and the Mahim fort was built to safeguard it. The Portuguese in 1640 built Bandra fort near today’s Bandra reclamation (formerly a part of Salsette island) as a watchtower overlooking Mahim Bay, the Arabian Sea and the southern island of Mahim & to make this region more safe. The Portuguese built this strategically located fort as an outpost, marking the southernmost tip of the mainland. Fresh water springs located close to the fort served as a potable water point when they sailed across. They exist to this day, but now serve an entirely different group of people i.e. the local fishermen (As per the plaque placed inside the fort). This shows how the different values are attached to it such as Political value to the defenders of the land at that time, Environmental value as it served as a source of fresh water then till today and Historical value of it today for the city and its people as a landmark of various events. Forts had been very crucial structures earlier due to the functions and benefits associated with it but over the period of time the values attached to any structure may get changed, altered or added depending upon the society. Thus it depend on the values people draw from them, the functions heritage objects serve for society, the uses to which heritage is put, are the real source of the meaning of heritage.

The plaque placed inside the fort premises. (Source: Author)

Walking down along the Bandstand on the very active B. J. Road, one could find numerous eateries offering variety of street food with glimpse of Sea in between. As soon as you come near hotel Taj Lands End you could see the tip of the massive structure of Bandra- Worli Sea Link: the urban spectacle, which seems very attractive and it pulls you towards it.

Among all the forts I have visited till now, Bandra Fort exhibits a very unique character. It appears as a very famous ‘Public Space’ than just a ‘Tourist Place’ unlike other forts. The interrelationship between time and space is so closely knit that clearly shows the difference in each of these with respect to other. The forts that were once built for defense in due course of time have changed its purpose of serving to the society. Transition from a very rigid and disciplinary space to a casual hangout place is very interesting factor associated to it. This can be evidently seen through today’s scenario in the form of space occupation and its use by the people. The earlier Political value of the space have totally transformed into the Heritage and Social value as it has turned out to be one of the prominent public spaces in the city today. I frequently visit the place and every time I go I find few interesting activities such as Bollywood movie shoots, pre-wedding photo shoots, various shows at Amphitheatre and sometimes an artist showing his skills on guitar and singing with a passion that could create a large crowd standing around him and appreciate.

Eateries along the BJ Road. (Source: Author)

Road along Hotel Taj Lands End leading to the fort and the tip of the Sea link at the background. (Source: Author)

The Cultural significance and Social values then become crucial as it defines why an object or place is meaningful, to whom, for whom it is conserved, the impact of interventions on how it is understood or perceived, etc. “Heritage is never merely conserved or protected; it is modified both enhanced and degraded by each new generation” (David Lowenthal). The modifications can be clearly seen on site to accommodate the modified purpose. Addition of gardens, seating areas, and Amphitheatre is inevitable when it has to serve the society as a public space to sit, eat, chit-chat and hangout. That is how Values and valuing processes are threaded through the various spheres of conservation plays an enormous role, whether works of art or buildings, the products of material culture have different meanings and uses for different individuals and communities. The various values always give significance over other aspects and thereby transform some objects and places into “heritage’’. The ultimate aim of conservation is to maintain (and shape) the values embodied by the place through physical interventions or treatment. Thus it is necessary to examine why and how heritage is valued, and by whom.

Amphitheatre: creating platform for various activities. (Source: Author)

Seating provided along the slope.

(Source: Author)

The small gate along with few food stalls allows you to enter inside the premises and then the view of the fort remains along with the Sea link and large expanse of the Arabian Sea with strong breezes blows your mind. The new layer recently added to this space in the form of Bandra-Worli sea link which is the ‘’Iconic’’ structure of the city runs just next to the fort in the Mahim bay and offers eye catching view of it from the fort. Creating a unique blend of old and new, this element succeeded to draw not only a large amount of people throughout the city but also Bollywood film-makers to this place for filming. This eventually ended up by giving new values to this space such as Associational value because of certain recognition and Economic value in the form of revenues and various food/snack stalls that lined up and other hawking businesses to serve the increased visitors.

The food stalls near the entry.

(Source: Author)

Viw after entering inside. (Source: Author)

The tiny entrance leads to the small open area with stone fencing always reminds me of famous song of one of the movies shot here. The fort has the few steps leading to top which allows a dramatic view of the premises. You could find people sitting on the edges along the steps which are the best spots where one can get magnificent view of the Sea link. I visited the fort at the time of low tide and I could see a large amount of folks got down on the rocks to get nearer to the sea and spending time sitting there.

                                                                       

Entry leading to small open area inside. (Source: Author)

Steps inside with entrance and view of the Sea link at the background. (Source: Wikipedia)

People seating on the rocks during low tide. (source: Author)

 The open area inside with people enjoying the view (Source: Author)

People seating along the steps and Hotel Taj Lands End at the background. (Source: Author)

Cultural significance is the term that defines the multiple values ascribed to objects, buildings, or landscapes. Thus Conservation does not become objective; it is biased by the values and perspectives of various individuals and interest groups. This can be understood by stakeholders’ values, which define their goals and motivate their actions, provides critical insight for the long-term, strategic management of heritage resources by both the private and the public sectors. The residents of this area, meanwhile, have fought hard and long to reclaim this area, which is now maintained by the Bandra Bandstand Residents Trust (BBRT). As they have mentioned that they have taken up the maintenance of the fort for last 15 years as well as they don’t want to close this chapter of the history and make it available for future generations (The Indian Express). This clearly illustrates that the values of individuals and communities be they conservators, anthropologists, ethnic groups, politicians, or otherwise shapes all conservation and in the conservation process, these values, as represented in the object or place, are not simply “preserved” but are, rather, modified. The meaning of the object or place is redefined, and new values are sometimes created.

The board placed inside by BBRT. (Source: Author)

Cultural heritage thus become important because of the meanings and uses that people attach to these material goods and the values they represent. These meanings, uses, and values must be understood as part of the larger sphere of sociocultural processes and as society changes the role of conservation and the opportunities for conservation to shape and support civil society also changes.

The splendid view of the Sea link. (Source: Author)

Address: Bandstand Road, Mt Mary, Bandra West, Mumbai, Maharashtra 400050,
India

Timings: All days of the week 10:00 AM - 8:00 PM

Visiting Duration: Between 30minutes to 1 hour

Entry Fee: no entry fees

How To reach: Take a train to Bandra West then taxi or auto rickshaw to Taj Lands

End hotel or Bandra fort By Bus station: Father Agnel Ashram

Bibliography :

Randall mason, Erica Avrami. (May, 2000). Heritage values and challenges in conservation planning. (International workshop on Management planning for archeological sites)

David Lowenthal, (2000), Chapter: Stewarding the Past in a Perplexing Present. Book: Values and Heritage Conservation Research Report, The Getty Conservation Institute, Los Angeles.


Stay tuned to explore some more interesting places, with interesting facts. Keep reading. MonumentzMan will be back very soon. Follow on twitter @monumentzman.